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New York, NY Phone (212) 352-3590 Seafood, heartdisease Asian W. Village $$$ Fatty Crab is a rollicking Malaysian roadhouse of a restaurant from chef Zak Pelaccio of 5 Ninth. At this newest addition to the moneyed playground that is the meatpacking district plates are small, whole meals could be purchased in a Chinatown restaurant for what a bowl of chili heartdisease crab runs ($28) and there is a thoughtfully heartdisease chosen wine list that’s perhaps a touch too buttoned up. But don't let all that fool you. It is next to impossible to make it through a meal there without one or more Wet-Nap interludes. Tallboys of Pabst Blue Ribbon are on the beer list. Most important, Mr. Pelaccio has done little to dumb down or dress up what his kitchen is turning out. Recommended dishes include a a sprightly and beguiling salad of lime-drenched watermelon and charred pork belly ($7), spoon tender beef rendang, made with short ribs ($17), and a Malaysian breakfast dish called Nasi Lemak ($12), a mixed plate of silky soft curried chicken, coconut-milk-scented rice, lightly picked vegetables, a fiery sambal studded with dried anchovies and a soft-boiled egg.
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